(Originally published Nov. 12, 1009) Today’s blogger is Ron Kaplan.
Because they know that I’m somewhat food-obsessed, people who know me often ask for suggestions, recommendations and tips on where to eat and shop for food in the northern suburbs. They figure that as much time as I spend eating it, thinking about it, shopping for it and cooking it, I’m a good source for information about food.
#1 Ranked Burger: Prairie Grass Cafe
Over the years, I’ve managed to accumulate a list of go-to places that rarely let me down. The popular contention that good food cannot be found up north is, I believe, a creation of rationalizing city-dwellers who’ve gone foggy from breathing in exhaust while endlessly circling for parking. Don’t get me wrong, the density of fantastic food finds is admittedly greater within the city limits but that doesn’t mean that those of us who reside north of Howard Street cannot enjoy the best without schlepping all the way into the city to get it. Here are a few of my favorite stops – some well-known, some not so well-known – all of which offer a lot more than what might initially meet your eye . . .
Prairie Grass Café – 601 Skokie Blvd, Northbrook, IL (847) 205-4433
You may already know about this casual, family-friendly, locally-focused eatery,which just began its sixth year of operation in a location that many were convinced was cursed. But what you might not know is that its kitchen is helmed by 2-time James Beard Award-winning chef Sarah Stegner, along with chef George Bumbaris, who cooked together and ran the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton in Chicago for 20 years before opening PGC – along with Stegner’s husband Rohit Nambiar – in 2004.
Both Stegner and Bumbaris have been cooking since they were children and they are naturals in the truest sense. Wine maven Nambiar, who was formerly the manager at Seasons Restaurant (in The Four Seasons Hotel), runs the front of the house and has assembled an eclectic, memorable and affordable wine list. General Manager Dan Sviland, who worked with Nambiar at Seasons, is also Prairie Grass Café’s resident mixologist and he’s got a distinctive talent behind the bar, constantly inventing seasonal, market-based libations that echo the menu’s distinctive philosophy.
Miramar Bistro – 301 Waukegan Ave, Highwood, IL 60040 (847) 433-1078
Once a hot-spot among the North Shore’s divorcee crowd, Gabe Viti’s French-Cuban bistro actually struggled for a time, after its initial flurry, to find its identity. Enter Chicago super-Chef Roland Liccioni, formerly of Le Francais, who quietly took over the kitchen back in the first half of 2009.
Salad Lyonnaise with poached eggs; Miramar
Since that time, the chef who many chefs consider to be among the best to have ever cooked in Chicago, has put his personal touches all over the menu, reworking previous offerings and adding many new, signature items as well. As if that weren’t enough, around the same time Liccioni signed on, the wine program was taken over by the legendary Bob Bansberg, who was formerly the sommelier and wine director at Ambria. Bansberg has taken an already respectable list at Miramar and raised it to new heights.
Patty’s Diner - 3358 Main St, Skokie, IL 60076 (847) 675-4274
If you’re a fan of ‘old skool’ diners, you’re going to love Patty’s. Here, eggs, omelets ham-off-the-bone, pancakes and toasted house-baked bread are just a few of the delectable offerings that owner Patty Tunk will cook for you – to order. You might also want to treat yourself to a plate of biscuits and gravy, which are among the best I’ve had. Patty’s also serves a house specialty known as “old potatoes,” which are a super crispy version of hash browns that are twice-cooked and seasoned liberally with zesty black pepper.
Patty's awesome hamhash with "old potatoes"
For a real treat, ask for these awesome spuds as part of the signature Ham Hash. In this dish, generous chunks of ham (carved directly off the bone) are served over potatoes (“old” or standard), and topped with 2 eggs. If breakfast isn’t your thing, try an open-face turkey sandwich with gravy and mashed potatoes (Wednesdays only), a tasty house-made soup, or a juicy burger, served on a house-baked bun.For a real treat, ask for these awesome spuds as part of the signature Ham Hash. In this dish, generous chunks of ham (carved directly off the bone) are served over potatoes (“old” or standard), and topped with 2 eggs. If breakfast isn’t your thing, try an open-face turkey sandwich with gravy
Bennison’s Bakery - 1000 Davis St, Evanston, IL 60201 (847) 328-9434
Since so many of us in the northern suburbs are focused on healthful eating, nearby bakeries are harder and harder to come by these days. Of those that remain, it seems that a scant few are worth the indulgence. Not so at Bennison’s Bakery in Evanston. Not only are the pastries at this venerable bakery excellent but their baguette is the best in the world – literally.
"Best in the World" Bennison's Baguette
In 2005, Bennison’s head baker, Jory Downer, captained the USA team which won the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie in Paris. This is the most prestigious bread-baking competition in the world and winning it, especially for a team of underdog Americans, was as shocking to the culinary world as was the U.S. Hockey Team winning the gold medal at the 1980 Winter Olympics. Luckily for us, Downer still does his thing at Bennison’s and their baguette is available daily.
Chicago Bagel & Bialy II – 260 S Milwaukee Ave, Wheeling, IL 60090 (847) 459-9009
Among Chicagoland’s foodies, there’s an unofficial consensus that the only great bagels in town can be found at New York Bagels and Bialys in Lincolnwood. True, their bagels are indeed special but what many north-suburbanites don’t know is that the bagels at Chicago Bagel and Bialy II in Wheeling – run by Harold Harkavy, the son of one of NYB&B’s founding partners – are every bit as special.
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This place has (not-so-quietly) been in business for 26 years and is now in its second location. In addition to their perfectly dense, wonderfully chewy, bagels, CB&B II also turns out some great salads, and carries a full line of top-quality deli meats. There’s also a comfortable eat-in area, so it’s not strictly carry-out. I’m often amazed that people who’ve lived up north for decades don’t know about this special destination.
Zier’s Prime Meats & Poultry – 813 Ridge Rd, Wilmette, IL 60091 (847) 251-4000
Remember when meat used to taste like meat? Can you recall the days when pork wasn’t ‘the other white meat,’ when steaks were cut to order and your butcher made his own sausage and deli meats? Well, if you stop in at Zier’s Prime Meats in Wilmette, you’ll find that those days are still very much alive. Dave Zier, a 2nd-generation butcher who originally hales from Iowa, runs his ‘blink-and-you-might-miss-it’ neighborhood shop, with his wife Denise, like a welcome throwback from another era.
Dave Zier and Smoked Goose
The Ziers, along with their dedicated staff, really do it all themselves. They cure and smoke their own bacon and hams, roast their own turkey breast and roast beef, and make their own sausages and hotdogs, which they grill and sell hot, in front of the store on Saturdays. Zier’s also dry-ages their U.S.D.A. prime beef in-house for up to 28 days. At Thanksgiving time, Zier’s sells heritage turkeys that, unlike the mass-produced birds found at the major grocery stores, actually have flavor. The personalized service they provide is truly distinctive and happens to be a perfect match for their superior-quality goods. Whether you need something for a simple weekday lunch or something magnificent for a special dinner party, Zier’s is your place. They’ll always make you look good.
Ron Kaplan is a moderator and Director of Media Relations at LTHForum.com, Chicagoland’s culinary-based chat site, where he posts under the handle of ronnie_suburban. When he’s not writing about food at LTHForum or cooking, he works in the food industry, selling specialty ingredients.
